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Three times a year during the winter season,
the famous Welsh tourist spot of Llangollen is hit by a wave of entirely
different visitors. Paddlers from all over Britain come to take part in
one of the WCA's tours of the local river. The trio of Dee Weekends starts
with an early bird session in November, often inhibited by low water levels,
followed by the pre-Christmas run in December, which seems to attract
the largest crowd, and the Frostbite Tour in early January, aptly named
for the often below zero temperatures which - combined with the freezing
water - are enough to make even the hardiest and most confident paddle
freaks shiver at the thought.
However, the Dee and Llanggollen are always
worth the four hour drive past the Welsh border. The most interesting
section of the river, from Horseshoe Weir down to Town Falls, features
a nice mixture of adrenaline-raising rapids, good play spots and short
gentle drifts which afford the paddler a relaxing view of the admirable
scenery. But non-canoeists - whether devoted or put off by the weather
and water conditions - will find a choice of pastimes, too. The rolling
hills of the surrounding countryside invite for walks of any length -
Velvet Hill Path f.e. leaves right across the road from where most canoeists
take their access. Hugging the hillside, it follows the Dee straight back
into town. The river is well in sight most of the time and one can hear
the roar of Serpent's Tail and the shouts and cheers of the intrepid folk
playing in it. The path also takes the walker past the ruins of an old
abbey, just one of a myriad of official points of interest which also
include a castle, lookout tower, the old state mines and many more.
The quaint town itself begs for a day’s
attention, too. That is not only to join the crowds on the bridge watching
the paddlers defy the trickiest of the rapids: Town Falls, of which they
say that one stands a chance of one in ten of getting hurt in a swim...
(No wonder the bridge during paddle weekends seems to be an attraction
of its own!). But there are loads of special shops close by, boasting
rather unorthodox curiosities, like the Candle Shop which indeed sells
nothing but candles - masterpieces from Chinese dragons to fairy tale
castles and Merlin the Wizard himself to amazingly real-looking frogs
about to leap off the table-side. Or "Wholly Cats", another oddity which
features all sorts of knickknack shaped like or otherwise connected with
the beloved felines. And then there is "Café & Books", the most remarkable
place selling refreshments and snacks in the basement (one of the canoeists
haunts when they are after a quick warm-up/energy injection) and second-hand-books
upstairs. They claim to permanently have around 75'000 pieces on show
and "specialise" in having everything. Plus of course there is a wealth
of Welsh crafts shops, usually easy to identify by a large selection of
wooden "lovespoons" in their display windows. Apart from sheep, those
seem to be the most prominent Welsh item, relating to a time when they
were not tourist souvenirs but exquisite objects of labour of love with
which Welsh boys would court their chosen ladies.
Apart from historical places and shops,
Llangollen is a place of hotels and B&Bs, but - more attuned to ACC budgets
- it also has a Youth Club which can be rented as an overnight and, although
without beds, comes with hot showers, kitchen facilities and two pool
tables. Needless to say, this is where our respective delegations made
their domicile - minus Sid & Clare on the 2nd tour who bottled out into
a B&B!
The first trip under Jezz's lead had a good
amount of "Dee First-Timers" going. Unfortunately, the group split up
on the second day (find an account of the novices’ solo adventures in
“D-Day on the Dee”). A leaking boat brought further problems to the main
group: Sonia who had borrowed Kev’s old Pyranha boat got wet from below
instead of above and despite repeated repairs, the craft did not really
live up to the challenge of the river. Maybe trust a good old Club Rotobat
next time, Sonia?!?
Despite the generally large numbers of
people on the December run, the ACC group under Sean’s order was a rather
small lot and further diminished by Seal, John and his Dad packing off
to the Tryweryn to take part in a 5* training course, Petra being put
off by the cold (minus degrees!) which had come early this winter and
Sean keeping her company on Saturday (talk of chain reactions).
On Sunday, however, he braved the temperatures
after a good night's rest (John was on his best behaviour, probably due
to the presence of his Dad, which in turn seemed to keep Seal in check
as well - what bliss!). While Petra and Adele took the Beardies along
Velvet Path, Sean and Jezz made the two mile river journey surprisingly
fast: apparently, playing between islands of frozen grass is not enough
excitement to keep you warm on a river you do three times a year…
Finally, Sean was in charge of the Frostbite
Tour again, this time together with Jezz, and added a new dimension to
the Dee Experience by bringing his Duo and taking white water novice Fera
down the rapids. This was good fun although it ended in a swim for Fera
past Town Falls when Sean rolled the boat back up with that "Oops, where
is my passenger?" effect. No damage done, though, and Fera commented:
"It was freezing. My hand was on the deck before I could even think of
the fact that this was probably not a good idea…". We don't blame her…
The evening was spent in true ACC manner
between Bridge End pub and the Sarah Ponsonby where we were lucky enough
to get an arrangement for dinner (saying "we got a table" would be preposterous
as we had 6 people crammed around 3 tiny round bar tables, but the food
made up for it and we even got the bar maid chatting and joking - we now
know that dark brews are being kept at 4°!!!). Most of us made an early
exit back to the Club trying to catch up on sleep after the morning drive
down, unfortunately screwed up by the Mad Duo of Seal and John (no longer
under Daddy’s watching eye...) who mistook the Youth Club for a disco
and kept shooting pool balls all over the place as well. Must be strong
stuff, that Welsh beer…
The second day awaited us with a nasty surprise.
If Saturday had been cold but brilliant, Sunday morning dawned frosty
under a light cover of snow!!! The thermometer was stuck at -6° and that
was when Fera, Petra and Mark opted out for the day. Even Sean demanded
a trip to the mobile paddle shop, to get himself a pair of pogies, because
he had forgotten his… Thus came he missed the extra-curricular of the
day: John kayaking down the hillside above Horseshoe Weir for a joke and,
lacking the means to break, overshooting the footpath right into the river
and going down the falls sideways. “Faux-pas proper”, luckily without
consequences…
Mark tried an easier version of this new-style
canoeing technique later on: down the 2 meter slope behind the Youth Club,
much to the amusement of some local kids, who did the same piece on their
sleds!
All in all, it was three marvellous weekends
for the Club members in Wales - after all, going to the Dee is not just
going paddling, it is an institution!
By Petra Hudson, January 1999
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